Food and Gourmet

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Life & Lifestyle

Watami Buys US Onigiri Chain Onigilly, and the Buyer Is Japan's Old Symbol of 'Black Company' Labor

Japanese izakaya group Watami has acquired a 51% stake in Onigilly, a San Francisco onigiri chain, a bet on America's rice-ball boom. But the buyer is also a company long known in Japan as a symbol of 'black company' overwork culture. We unpack the deal, why onigiri became a healthy, photogenic US lunch, and who Watami really is.